Day 20 - Split, Croatia

We have enjoyed great weather but last night a huge storm rolled in where there was thunder and lightening all night. The rain has been off and on all day but the last few hours this evening, it hasn't let up.

Despite the weather, we shopped, then we shopped and then shopped some more. We also started to organise our ferry to Vela Luka which we will catch on Wednesday. 

Looking out of our bedroom window

It's pouring!

Day 19 - Split, Croatia

We really like Serbia and would like to see more of it but maybe for another day. After breakfast we went for a quick browse through the many market stalls that operate in the old town. We need longer here and will certainly earmark Serbia as a place to revisit and spend much longer in next time. But for now it's to the airport and for the fifth time, a change of currency as we head to Split in Croatia. Despite Croatia now being a member of the European Union, they still use the Kuna but also accept Euro. We have been here in 2010 and 2013 and really love it.

We arrived at Split Airport at 3pm by propellor plane and were in our apartment by 4. K took the kids to the beach and after walking with them some of the way, I went off to take some pics. We all eventually caught up and walked the old town before dinner.

A big sleep in is on the agenda tomorrow.

Day 18 - Belgrade, Serbia

It's always sad to leave a place where the people are so warm and welcoming. We have been nurtured by Vele and Sneza for the last 2 1/2 weeks who have provided a roof over our heads, travel to numerous places, provided a history on the area and an interpreting service. Without them, we would never have lived the real Macedonia. So we give them a heart felt thank you for being there for us.

We said goodbye to the people of Sopotnica and exchanged gifts and a few tears. From here, Vela and Sneza drove us to Prelip where we said our goodbyes to them and Ana, Vlatko and the kids. We then caught a taxi for the 2 1/2 hour drive to Skopje to fly to Belgrade Serbia on route to Split, Croatia. There is a 24 hour lay over so this time in the Stari Grad (old town) suits us fine for an overnight sleep.

The old town of Belgrade is very beautiful, cosmopolitan and very very busy. We really enjoyed looking around, having a drink and doing some shopping. 

Tomorrow afternoon we head to Split, Croatia.

Martea (Ana's daughter - 4 years old) spiking tobacco leaves ready for sewing.

David (Ana's son - 8 years old) sews tobacco

Husband and wife tobacco farmers sought tobacco leaves.

Day 17 - Sopotnica, Macedonia

After several vomits last night I'm feeling much better. I'm suspicious it is something I ate and I should have known better than to eat prepared meat here. 

Our last day in this wonderful country. Started to pack. It makes for a pleasant change in not packing and unpacking continually having set our roots here for the last 2 1/2 weeks. Spent about half an hour at the local police station in obtaining documents that we didn't get last year so all should be good this time.

During the evening we visited Sophie who used to live across the road and was bought for €300. She has since left her husband, remarried and is now pregnant and very happy. Again the food and drinks never stopped coming but it was difficult as I felt I had smoked a packet of cigarettes as everyone smokes around the table whilst they eat.

Tomorrow we head to Belgrade, Serbia.

At the Macedonska Kuka 

Ana and Tilly

Sophie with her hunting rifles

A tobacco farmer with horse and cart

Day 16 - Sopotnica, Macedonia

It's a public holiday today in celebrating the birth of Mary. Off to Prelip to visit some relatives of Sneza's and then to Vlatko and Ana's place before hitting the town for lunch and a walk. We gave them toothbrushes and paste for the kids, some money, Australian tea towels and key rings. They just loved them and put their keys on the rings immediately.

I felt unwell on the way home where the toilet became my best friend. Hope this doesn't last as tomorrow is our last day in Macedonia.

I have uploaded a sample of images from my photo essay. These are as shot and low res for the blog and in no particular order.

1. Ana picking tobacco leaves

2. Vlatko holds a string of leaves after they have been sewn together

3. Finn carrying a tub of leaves ready for sewing

4. Vlatko attempting to use his mobile phone

5. Ana having a coffee break

6. Tar from the leaves are seen on the tub

7. Picking tobacco leaves

8. Picker have a coffee break

9. Finn placing leaves in a tub

10. Making coffee in the boot of the car (right next to the gas tank)

11. The sun rises over the tobacco field

12. Strings of freshly picked leaves hang to dry

13. Vlatko tying string together after sewing leaves

14. Ana picking before sunrise

Day 15 - Sopotnica, Macedonia

After an hours drive we arrive at the tobacco field, where Vlatko and three paid women pickers are already at it. During the next five hours, Finn worked like a real trooper having an amazing experience. I shot around 450 images. The flies were everywhere and they continually bit through our t-shirts. Tobacco is picked early in the money as once the sun hits the plants, they become too sticky to touch.

After we finished, we headed to Ana's fathers place where the picked tobacco was hung. We were fed and watered and whilst this was happening the local priest came to bless the house and family including Finn and I. The food never stopped coming despite the lack of funds. Ana's father is up at 1am every day as his tobacco field is larger so I guess I should count myself lucky with the 3am start. We were asked to return for dinner but again, this just won't happen. 

Finally we returned to Sopotnica at 1pm. Mende from next door insisted I come and watch The Godfather but I managed to escape. During the evening we went to a visiting open air cinema that played a documentary and it was in English!

A huge couple of days that leaves me absolutely buggered.

Day 14 - Prelip, Macedonia

Much of life in the Balkens is about choice or more appropriate - lack of it. When we get old and need to move to a lower maintenance home, we simply sell and move. Here, houses can be up for sale for more than a decade. Last year I wrote about a house for sale here for more than 10 years. It's still for sale so selling off and moving elsewhere is not an option for most people. For those that seek greener pastures abandon their homes or as the older generation die their houses become empty. There are many villages that have become ghost towns because of these reasons.

Lack of employment, lack of appropriate partners for a relationship and lack of money all equal lack of choice that we take so much for granted. We often agonise over choices in life but having choice in the first place makes us rich.

Vlatko and Ana, after everything is paid, work for $AU0.20 an hour each. They work almost 100 hours a week.

Finn and I caught the bus from Bitola to Prelip. A Macedonian man who spoke English quite well chattered most of the way. Vele picked us up at the Autobuska stanica (bus station) and visited his aunty. She asked us to return for dinner but that just won't happen. 

We then ventured to Ana And Vladko's place where we will stay the night. Given my Macedonian consists of about twelve words, Ana having about the same amount in English and Vlatko hovering around zero, it made for an interesting evening. At the last moment, Vele decided to come so we had an interpreter.

It's in bed by 11.30 for a 3am start to complete my photo essay. Vlatko, Ana and their three children - David and twins Matea and Maté do this every day - seven days a week. I admire their tenacity in attempting to carve a living from what most of us would struggle to attempt.

Day 13 - Sopotnica, Macedonia

It appears we are the talk of the town. K and I went for a walk through the village where an old man asked if we were Australian in very broken English. He spoke no English other than "Australia, Sydney, Melbourne" but regardless insisted we have a coffee with him. His wife was sewing chillies together to dry for food during the bitter winter months. We were given watermelon, coffee, chestnuts and pitulitsi - layers of crepe like food with cheese. It was just wonderful despite the communication being impossible. Once again, the generosity of those with little is just incredible.

Vele spent the day getting his ailing car repaired, returning at almost 8.30pm. It's off to Prelip for an overnight stay for Finn and I.

Day 12 - Sopotnica, Macedonia

A relaxing day it has been. It's nice to do nothing for a day although I did go for a lovely walk with just me and my camera. Tilly and Finn continue to hang out with the local children and despite the communication barriers, they spend many hours together. It is so healthy for our kids to have such experiences that most will never have.

We can never get enough of village life, so we once again explored the area in the evening.

Day 11 - Tirana, Albania

One of the great things about the Balkins is how cheap food is. This morning we had five byrek - a pastry filled with cheese, two coffees and two cans of Nestlés ice tea for $AU5.50.

We returned to Tirana, Albania for a final look around as we pass through this capital city to return to Sopotnica in Macedonia. Again, a very hot day but we braved it to explore the city a little further. The Albanians are friendly people which seems to be the norm within the Balkens. Both Albania and Macedonia were under a communist regime and there are many buildings that are testament to this.

Passing the Albanian border required another bribe. If you don't bribe, the border police will keep you waiting for three to four hours so a few dollars goes a long way. A few hundred metres through "no man's land" and the Macedonian border police are more honest - no bribe required.

As we have no car at the moment, it will be a relaxing day tomorrow.

Day 10 - Durrës, Albania

On the way home last night from Struga, Velle's car died on the side of the road. There's no such thing as NRMA here but luckily there was one lone service station only 100 metres up the road. We eventually organised a taxi to take us home (2 hours away) and left Velle's car behind.

Up at 5am to travel to Tirana, Albania. Crossing the border was easier than Greece as Vele and Sneza didn't have to fill out paperwork because they were Macedonian. We did have to bribe the Albanian police again to cross but this time it was only 100 Denars ($AU2.50). It's stinking hot here at about 38 degrees. 

Tirana is a mad house where people overtake in front of us where we have to stop to avoid headons, everyone honks their horns and police are on every corner pulling cars over. The city is wealthy in contrast to the country areas where people are very, very poor. Kids sell berries on the edge of the roads, most houses are incomplete and very dilapidated and people sell whatever they can to scratch out a living. There is an area just before the city that is a Gypsy camp where many makeshift shanties exist.

The city is fairly modern and cosmopolitan however people sell all sorts of things by the road including front doors. A Gypsy girl no older than five begs on a four lane major road between buses, cars and trucks. A little further down a Gypsy woman with a baby begs for money through my open window not taking no for an answer. Those traffic lights where she harassed me seemed to take forever to change.

We then drove further to the seaside city of Durrës. We are staying the night here. The beach is absolutely packed where thousands upon thousands of beach umbrellas ajoin one another to shade the many shapes and sizes that lie beneath. The water looks filthy. 

The streets are lined for kilometers with street sellers that seem to be selling the same things. The streets at night are curb to curb with people, many from Kosovo. One shopkeeper told us we were the first Australians she had ever met. The vendors light their stalls with power from an unknown source but many power leads lay across the footpath.

On every corner there is a guy with a wad of cash acting as an exchange office. There are several other people with old bathroom scales that will weigh you on the spot for a small fee. There are many Gypsies also here begging on the street with children that looked drugged as they appear unconscious regardless of the noise. Other Gypsies touch us as we walk by as they beg. This is their life and it starts from birth. Children are groomed to beg. There is no sick pay, holidays and they don't return home to a nice dinner, shower and a clean bed. They live in squaller. It's the same thing everyday - just begging. Along with them are people with no arms and others with deformities who beg for money. 

Makes us really appreciative of our lot in life. As I've said before, we've already won lotto.

Day 9 - Sopotnica, Macedonia

Out for a leisurely drive to Kichevo which is a small town about 3/4 hours drive away. Then a further 1 1/2 hours down the road we had lunch on the river at Struga. This included a short visit to Kalishta to visit a monestary by a lake. To enter we drove through some gates where the gate keepers name was Arse.

I've included some images from the past week.

1: One of two buses that collided on the main road

2: Peak hour in downtown Sopotnica

3: Original tessellated tiles dating to 4BC

4: Tilly having to cover up in one of the rock monestaries in Greece

5: Gypsies by a wood cutting buggy

7: Some tobacco drying in an old barn

Tomorrow we head to Albania for a couple of days.

Day 8 - Sopotnica, Macedonia

Travelling is a wonderful thing but the body takes a bit of time to come to terms with it. I'm usually jet lagged for a week and everyone's digestive systems has to adjust to the time difference. We can't drink the water so it's always boiled or bottled. I have to remember that toilet paper cannot be flushed but has to be placed in a bin. Tilly, particularly, would rather almost wet herself than use a squat toilet and the water pressure, when working, is so poor and often cold, hair washing becomes a real challenge. It's always the little things we take so much for granted that become an everyday challenge but this is what it's all about - getting out of one's comfort zone.

It's been a week since we left and it's been wonderfully busy so today's a rest day. Having said this, we went for a great walk through another part of the village where a couple offered me to photograph their pigs. Later we passed a little pub where locals sell and buy milk from local cows. One old lady arrived with a bucket of milk that the publican poured into a vat from where he will sell to others.

People are gaoled here for two years when their cows escape and eat someone else's crops. It's hard labour in prison and whilst this sounds tough, the lack of any fencing can invite theft. 

Day 7 - Greece

Up at 2am to drive to Prilep. We hired a driver with a van to take us to Greece which is only half an hour away. Crossing borders can be interesting particularly from Macedonia to Greece as there are very ill feelings between the two. Greece possesses some of Macedonian land which they were meant to return last year. The border police had to be bribed (10 Euros) to let us through.

We drove to Meteora (Kalampaka) where nine monasteries perch more than a thousand metres high on large rock formations. We visited one called Varlaam (Agioi Pantes). It's amazing how they were ever built. Small carts attached by ropes are used to pull goods up to the monastery. 

We then visited some waterfalls that continually run and were you can walk behind them. Finn experimented with his camera so he could catch the moving flow of the water - he did very well.

We returned at 11pm so a huge day but very enjoyable. I think we deserve a rest day tomorrow.

Day 6 - Sopotnica, Macedonia

The local priest comes door to door to bless each family and their house during religious events and in this case there is a celebration to do with Mary but not quite sure exactly what. He lights a candle in water that he blesses and chants and touches each persons head to bless them. Really interesting.

Off again to Bitola for a better look around. We visited Heraklea, a 4BC town that was discovered fourty years ago. The original mosaic tiles remain mostly intact as does the amphitheatre. 

Vlatko and Ana have agreed to allow me to take a photo essay of them working their tobacco fields. This is one of my assignments for Uni where I am required to create a series of images that move through time to tell a story. I had to sought permission on a story of my choosing from the university prior to leaving Australia. I'm really happy they gave consent despite at that stage not having any commitment from any families working their fields. Our timing has been great as this is the busy time of year as they pick the tobacco leaves, sew and hang them to dry and gather seeds from flowers for planting next years crop. I hope to do this in the next week.

Sneza has been promising them she would help for a day so this has worked out perfectly as she and Vele can help with interpreting as well. The four of us will work also so this will be a fantastic experience (although I can imagine the griping that will come from the kids).

In the afternoon K and I went for a walk down some of the narrow lanes admiring the amazing ancient and often falling apart architecture. We got a little lost and spoke to some people (one spoke English) to guide us back. Just at this moment, a herd of cows were coming one way and a herd of sheep the other. There were people and animals everywhere then came a car all vying for little real estate. It was just a wonderful madness.

On returning we met up with Spasse and his wife Stouka who we met last year. Despite not understanding one another, they insisted we have a drink but we knew it would be dark when we could eventually get away so we had to keep insisting we would do it another day. Just wonderful.

We're up at 2am tomorrow to spend the day in Greece.

Day 4 - Sopotnica, Macedonia

Internet is non-existent in Sopotnica so I can only post and read emails whenever we are in a town. Whilst Tilly's birthday comes earlier in Australia, we are celebrating it today as Sneza planned it in case we head to Albania for a few days tomorrow.

Mende invited me to inspect his fields of veggies. It is quite ingenious how he diverts some water from the river that feeds into channels that water the crops. He also grows corn and uses their growth as a trellis to grow beans.

About twenty adults and children turned up to the party - a very small affair indeed by Macadonian standards. We later learnt that Ana stayed up until 1am cooking food for the party then was up at 3.30am to tend the tobacco field. Mende gave Tilly a small sack of home grown potatoes and some chillies stating that was all he could afford to give as a present. It is an honour to them to accept.

Vlatko and Ana arrived in a car no bigger than a Ford Laser filled with five children and four adults - perfectly legal here. We never wear seatbelts and six of us are always in a car built for five.

Later in the evening, Mende invited K and I to his home which is not much larger than our bedroom. Darko, their son and Blagisca share a small room and sleep on lounges. Mende sleeps in the "lounge room" (a tiny room with a small table, lounge and TV). They use water bottles that sit in the sun to bath with. We are getting good at communicating through broken sign language and I love the challenge of doing so but we really had to insist on leaving otherwise I think we would be there all night.

Everyone complains of being poor and hope that the US or UK will get involved in helping the country get back on its feet. As I write this I just heard that there is 50% unemployment among young people in Macedonia. Again, it was such a great day filled with meeting wonderful people and despite the lack of resources, people just keep giving themselves.

I handed some pictures I printed and framed from photos I took last year here. I was happy the glass survived the baggage handlers. People were very grateful as they have so few family portraits. Blagisca wants me to take one of Darko, Borche and Finn and Tilly together. I promised I would. The power of photography is a wonderful thing.

Day 3 - Sopotnica, Macedonia

Arose to another hot day. After breakfast, Vele concocted a whiskey drink made from boiling sugar and raw whiskey and I have to say it was not bad. Mende, a neighbour, showed me around including a visit to his pigs and sheep and huge veggie garden. We conversed through broken sign language. 

Afterwards it was wine and coffee to Christen Mende's new homemade balcony. I was a little concerned as to the structural integrity of it as most things here are held together by any means. Mende, Blagica (Mende's wife), Vele and I sat, drank and chatted as test pilots on Mende's handiwork. Thank goodness Vele was there for translation but it was a wonderful moment. It reinforces why I love this place so much. It's the beautiful people and their simple way of life. 

The kids wanted to go with some of the local kids (Darko, Borcia) to get an ice cream which are 20 Denars each ($AU 0.40) so when K handed Finn a 100 Denars note (AU$2.50) Darko, through translation, commented that it was a lot of money. 

In the afternoon, we travelled to the nearest town of Bitola (30 minutes away) to do some shopping. This was the town where we caught taxis to visit the area where the Gypsies (Roma) live. There are many around including three small girls of about six or seven years of age that were begging for money whilst they shared a cigarette. Some sell fruit and others play music for money.

Sneza and Vele had booked an open air restaurant for dinner where Macedonian music is played. It was a great night and we danced to the music in traditional style with the hand holding and moving in a large circular group. It didn't take long to get the correct foot movement happening and whilst it was at a slow pace, it can become quite a workout. 

There is singing and dancing on every corner with some in traditional dress. As people work very long and late hours, the festivities don't start until around 9.30 so dinner arrived at 11.20. We were home by 1.15am and in bed half an hour later. Tomorrow there's a party for Tilly's birthday.

Day 5 - Sopotnica, Macedonia

Happy birthday to my little girl who is now 12. Today was fairly easy with a lunch time drive to  Krushevo. This is a gorgeous town but we certainly felt it was a step back in time to 60 years ago. Every step kept us in awe. This area saw a huge amount of soldiers killed in 1903 when the Macedonians attempted to over throw the Turks that occupied their land. After the Second World War, the land was returned to the Macedonians. Then in 2001, the Macedonian war erupted when Albainians living in Macedonia attempted to take over the country. This lasted 8 months but the destruction can still be seen today.

We also visited the memorial house dedicated to Toshe Proveski - Macedonian's most famous singer who performed worldwide. He was killed at 26 in a car accident. We visited his grave last year but the memorial was closed.

In the evening, K and I visited Canka and Zlate (neighbours we met last year). Canka speaks English quite well so it was great to talk to a local unaided. Zlate recently acquired a job as a driver for the local mental hospital (that is what it is called). They are so happy as now they have a secure income from a government job.

It is impossible to describe what we have seen so far and would never have had these experiences if not for Vele and Sneza. Much of what we have seen is almost third world in terms of buildings and living conditions. The roads are deplorable, rubbish is piled and scattered everywhere as no garbage service exists. There is next to no maintenance to infrastructure, government services have little funding, most people drive very old Russian cars that are truly unroadworthy that are rusty, missing windows and other parts and poorer families ride a donkey and cart. With a population of only 2 million, mass unemployment and little tax revenue, many people have little hope for a bright future. There is a current campaign to inform people of their rights and to stamp out corruption. There is equally some beautiful areas as well but these are usually centered around large towns. 

Macedonia is rich in gold, marble and iron ore but mines have closed in fear that neighboring countries may want to occupy the country.

Day 2 - Bankok, Dubai and eventually Sopotnitca, Macedonia.

What a long flight! Twenty six hours in total including a couple of short stopovers in Bankok and Dubai. I'm on very little sleep as I never do this well in a plane. Dubai Airport is absolutely massive and getting around it not that easy. Fortunately, most people speak English and after accosting a number of them, we found our way. We stopped at a Maccas for a coffee and was followed by an elderly Serbian man who did not speak any English. He grabbed a chair and sat with us despite there being plenty of space elsewhere. I shouted him a coffee so we all sat at the table for an hour and a half trying to communicate. With no wifi I couldn't use the translator app. He spoke to me and I either shrugged, laughed or said yes and when I asked him questions the roles were reversed. Very occasionally and by using our four heads, we could talk using the very little Yugoslavian we collectively knew. He followed us to our terminal gate and took some convincing that he had to go to another gate. We watched him to ensure he went through without dramas. It is very hot and humid here about 34 degrees.

We arrived at Alexander the Great Airport in Skopje at 12.45 where our good friends Vele and Vlatko were waiting for us. After another 2/1/2 hours we were at Vladko and Ana's place. Vlatko is Sneza's cousin and we met them last year. Ana had made us a late lunch of traditional Macedonian foods. After another couple of hours we headed to Spotnitca. 

On the way, we stopped at a police station to obtain the documents I failed to get last year that notifies the authorities of our presence in their country. The station is quite dilapidated and as I mentioned last year, they drive 35 year old Ladas. The station has little furniture with no personal additions. We were asked to sit in a room and wait that smelt of cigarettes, had torn chairs with backs missing and badly peeling paint and structural damage. There's just so little money for infrastructure.

Arriving into the village, the kids in the street ran to the car as some have kept in touch with our kids. The neighbour's came out to greet us and stayed for some home made whiskey on the porch under a warm summer night sky. Vele and Sneza were kept on their toes as constant interpreters. 

Tilly crashed by about 9 and by 10.30 and almost two days without sleep or a shower, I had one of each - the latter being the first. As water comes from the mountains to a well and being so hot, there was so little pressure but without exaggeration, it was one of the best showers of my life - I can't tell you how much better I felt afterwards. I slept for almost the next twelve hours.

Day 1 - Sydney Airport - The long haul

We should hit our first destination - the small village in Sopotnitca in Macedonia in about 30 odd hours. Everyone there is apparently itching to see us and sounds like celebrations have been organised for Til's party. Just seizing the moment to type this as we sit at Maccas with a coffee awaiting to board our flight. I'm certain there will be a couple of cranky and tired people by the time we get to the other end. K naturally was the one to be frisked including having to enter a space like looking machine that had walls that scanned every oriface of her body. She was clean as a whistle and was allowed on her way. Well there goes the call to board. See you on the other side of the world.